Discover something old

Fall is a beautiful time to be in the woods. There are boundless opportunities for hiking in the Saranac Lake area, and while all time outdoors can be special and memorable, hiking to and through old-growth forest can be an especially unique, rewarding and enriching experience. Old-growth, also known as primary forest, mature forest, or first-growth forest, is forest that has attained great age without being significantly disturbed by storms, fires, logging or other human activity. These old forests consist of native tree species, exhibit unique ecological processes, and include tree-related structures such as multi-layered canopies that provide for diverse wildlife habitats, ultimately increasing the biodiversity of the forested ecosystem. 

In the case of most old-growth in the Adirondacks, this equates to forests whose trees are hundreds of years old, and who began growing before New York became a state. In this sense alone, we can view the old-growth in the Adirondacks as an exceptional, rare, living timeline of history that can help us to recapture our sense of wonder. It is quite amazing to consider the historical events that have occurred locally and beyond as these trees have aged – imagine the stories they could tell about the time they have lived through and the events they may have witnessed! Pockets of old-growth are sprinkled throughout the Adirondacks. For varying reasons, these communities of trees were not disturbed – in some cases, the trees were inaccessible to logging operations, some in areas naturally protected from storm damage, while others were purposely maintained by forward-thinking people. Fortunately for us living today, hiking to and viewing many of these old-growth areas are surprisingly accessible to the public. 

“I feel a great regard for trees; they represent age and beauty and the miracles of life and growth.” 
— Louise Dickinson Rich

Paul Smith's VIC

One of the most delightful places to explore the wonders of the forest is at Paul Smith's VIC. There is a lot to see and do at the VIC, where the trails are open dawn to dusk 7 days a week. Several pockets of old-growth exist in the Paul Smith's area, including a legendary grove of white pines (Pinus strobus) known as 1675 Grove, or Elder's Grove. Growing unimpeded for the last 350 years or so within this grove, which is approximately 8 acres in size, are a group of white pines that have become a living memorial to original growth wilderness. White pines mature to an age of about 350-400 years, so this grove of old trees is at the end of its lifespan. Until recently, a tree that was believed to be one of New York's tallest, stood here at an estimated 160.4 feet. In late 2021, the majestic pine, known as Tree #103 fell, and now remains as an important part of the forest, although no longer standing (note that if you visit, Tree #103 is a choice spot for photos, as this tree is already down and you will not disturb the root collar of any of the still-standing, living trees in the grove).

While it's possible to hike to Elder's Grove, the trail is unmarked. Stop in at Paul Smith's VIC to request more information and hiking directions (check their website for operating hours). If you're interested in visiting and prefer to not hike alone, the VIC staff provides periodic tours of Elder's Grove and other areas of the property. While there is no cost to hike at Paul Smith's VIC, donations are accepted.

Ampersand Mountain

Another outstanding place to experience old-growth is at ever-popular Ampersand Mountain. You're a bit more on your own here, as there is no interpretive center or guided hikes. Most people hiking the trail of Ampersand Mountain will be on their way to or from the mountain's peak, but there is much to be said for hiking to explore as much or as little as you wish, discovering the delights of the forest with its grand old trees along the twists and turns of the trail. Upon beginning the trail, you'll be immediately surrounded by original, old-growth forest, with mature, impressive trees including hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) and northern hardwoods of sugar maple (Acer saccharum), yellow birch (Betula alleghaniensis) and some beech (Fagus grandifolia). This forest covers approximately 1,400 - 2,000 acres, the yellow birches within it being described as some of the most impressive in the state, many 400 years of age and older. The trail's length one-way, from the trailhead to the mountain's peak is a bit over 2 miles long. Keep in mind that while the first half of the trail is relatively easy, from there, reaching the peak can be a real challenge, so plan ahead if you intend to spend time both exploring the old-growth and also summiting the mountain.

Celebrating tall timber

New discoveries of old-growth and big trees are constantly made in the Adirondacks and beyond, and the NYS Dept. of Environmental Conservation maintains the Big Tree Register, a record of some of the tallest trees in the state. You can browse a list of the recorded "Big Tree Champions" by scientific name or common name and see where they are located, some details about each tree, when they were last measured, and who nominated them for recognition; a sort of "who's who" of trees in the state.

To learn more about the unique and wonderful old-growth and big trees of the Adirondacks, be sure to keep an eye on Paul Smith's College VIC's Programs and Events calendar for the Big Tree Fest, held annually the weekend before Memorial Day. This festival is held to celebrate old-growth among the tall trees of the Adirondacks, and features guided hikes, info on how you can determine the age and height of trees, contests, food, music and more!

Take care

Whether you're new to hiking or you were born wearing hiking boots, you're part of a community who enjoys spending time outdoors and who are mindful of behaving in a way that ensures an enjoyable experience for everyone. By following Leave No Trace ethics and practicing ways to Love Your ADK, you can participate in stewardship of the Adirondacks, helping to ensure the health and well-being of our beloved outdoor spaces for years to come. Be respectful, come prepared, and hike like a pro! 

As you write your own story this fall

However you choose to experience the Adirondacks this fall, we know that you'll find something spectacular to discover. Saranac Lake is a special place to visit during any season, but feels especially magical and memorable this time of year. As you plan your visit, you'll find lots of great options around the area for cozy lodging, restaurants to suit every taste and budget, and don't forget to check out the schedule of fall events to round out your trip.